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Craft Beer Thrives in Rio de Janeiro Favelas

By Jill Langloais

Marcelo Ramos and Gabriela Romualdo started selling craft beer out of a converted garage in Rio. Now, they're expanding to other cities in Brazil.

The bar is small, housed in a converted garage near an entrance to the vast Complexo do Alemão favelas in Rio de Janeiro’s north side. But step inside, and big ambitions are on display: 120 types of beer from places as distant as Belgium line the wall.

Despite its outsized aspirations, Bistrô Estação R&R is booming. In five years, the bar has become a hotspot for beer lovers local and foreign. On weekends, connoisseurs pack its tables and spill into its illuminated garden. All this despite the Brazilian penchant for light, bland brew, a wrenching national recession, and the bar'...

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